Exploring Zaragoza

The Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza.

We slept well and in the morning I went out to the supermarket across the street to buy us breakfast. After breakfast I went out to explore Zaragoza. I had spent some of the previous evening reading up on it. Zaragoza has a long and varied history and has been under the control of many different empires.

Zaragoza began life in the fifth century BC as a small Iberian settlement on the banks of the Ebro River. Later the Ancient Romans came here and took control of the settlement. They renamed it Caesaraugustus. Nowadays there are still several Roman remains here. Around 714 AD Muslim invaders gained control of the settlement and changed its name to Saraqusta. The settlement increased in size and was known for its many intellectuals and its religious tolerance, as it was home to Muslims, Christians and Jews.

It was during this period that the wonderful Aljaferia Palace was built as a home for the Sultan King Abu Jafar Moctadir. In 1118 Alfonso I, nicknamed The Battler, marched into town and drove the Muslim population out. Alfonso I renamed the city Zaragoza and made it the capital of Aragon.

In 1412 Ferdinand II, King of Aragon, married Isabella of Castile. It was this royal couple who funded the explorations of Christopher Columbus. They also drove Muslims and Jews out of Spain and began the infamous Spanish Inquisition.

After the death of Ferdinand II, Austria began to rule Zaragoza and the city expanded and prospered. In the 18th century the Bourbons gained control of the area. Later still Napoleon laid siege to the city, but was eventually driven out after several bloody battles with Spanish troops under the control of General Palafox. There was also fierce fighting here between 1936 to 1939, during the Spanish Civil war.

I began my explorations by seeking out the remains of the Ancient Roman theatre here. They were actually very close to where we had eaten dinner the night before.

The Ancient Roman theatre in Zaragoza was built in the first century AD during the reigns of Tiberius and Claudius. The theatre could seat around six thousand spectators. Nowadays you can enter the theatre through a museum or do what I did and just view it through its protective glass covering.

Zaragosa's Ancient Roman theatre.

Next I used my phone to show me how to go to the Aljaferia Palace. This was around thirty minutes walk away on the outskirts of the Old Town. I passed some beautiful places on the way.

One of the places I passed was another part of the El Tubo area known for its restaurants and bars.

El Tubo.

Restaurants.

I also passed a rather more modern theatre known as the Teatro Principal.

Teatro Principal.

I wandered around the outside of the Church of San Gil Abad, which dates back to the fourteenth century and was built in Mudéjar or Muslim style. I'd have liked to look inside, but unfortunately the church wasn't open.

the Church of San Gil Abad.

the Church of San Gil Abad.

the Church of San Gil Abad.

I reached the Plaza de España, a public square with a monument dedicated to the martyrs of the Spanish Civil War.

The Plaza de España.

I found several more churches including The Church of La Mantería, which was once part of the Augustinian monastery of Santo Tomás de Villanueva and the eighteenth century Baroque Church of St Thomas Aquinas.

Iglesia de la Mantería.

St. Thomas Aquinas Church.

I saw the High Court of Justice of Aragon, also known as the Palacio de los Luna, which was once the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition.

The Palacio de los Luna.

I eventually found a church that I could actually go inside. This was the Parish Church of Our Lady of Portillo. This was built between 1702 and 1731 by José Borgas and Gaspar Serrano and contains an image of Our Lady of Portillo.

The Parish Church of Our Lady of Portillo.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Inside the church.

Finally I reached the Aljafería Palace. I realised I could walk around the outside of the palace for free or pay €7 to go in. I thought I would walk round first then pay to go in, but when I got back to the ticket office the queue had become longer and I decided viewing the palace from the outside would do.

The Aljafería Palace.

The Aljafería Palace.

Originally there was a ninth century rectangular defensive tower on this site. Then two centuries later Muslim leader, Sultan King Abu Jafar Moctadir, decided he wanted a palace built here with the rectangular tower incorporated into the new building. This palace was home to the Muslim rulers of Zaragoza when they were at the height of their powers. When the Muslims were driven out of Zaragoza by Alfonso the Battler in the year 1118, the palace became home to the Catholic rulers of Zaragoza.

Although I didn't go inside the palace, I read that inside there is a Golden Hall with arches and pillars. This room has stars on its ceiling and geometric patterns on its walls. There's also a mosque which was later converted into a chapel and a courtyard with waterfalls and pools called the patio of Santa Isabel.

The Aljafería Palace.

The Aljafería Palace side view.

Apparently since 1987, The Aljaferia has been home to the Aragonese Corts, the regional parliament. I'm guessing this would be in the more modern looking back part of the palace.

It looks modern at the back.

The back of the palace.

Selfie with the palace.

The Aljafería Palace is surrounded by a beautiful park. I enjoyed having a stroll around here.

The grounds of the palace.

The grounds of the palace.

The grounds of the palace.

After exploring the park, I decided to walk back to the centre a different way to see more of the city. I came across an attractive looking building called the Teatro del Mercado, or Market Theatre. This building was built by Miguel Ángel Navarro Pérez in 1928 and originally served as a market place. Later it was converted into a theatre and nowadays hosts many performances.

Teatro del Mercado.

Teatro del Mercado

Outside this building was the fountain of the muses.

the Fuente de las Musas .

Fuente de las Musas

I passed by another impressive building called the Casa de Amparo, which is apparently now used as a home for senior citizens, but was originally the dormitory of the old convent of Santo Domingo.

Casa de Amparo.

I passed another interesting looking church which was unfortunately closed. Apparently nowadays this church is called The Church of las Fecetas, but it was originally The church of the old convent of Saint Teresa. Apparently this church is beautiful inside.

Church of las Fecetas in Zaragoza, Spain.

I also came across another palace.

Palacio de los Salabert-Sora.

There was street art all around this area.

Street art.

Street art.

Street art.

Street art.

Street art.

Street art.

Cars seemed to be painted on most garage doors.

Cars seemed to be painted on most garage doors.

Soon I reached another market and more Roman remains. The market was the Mercado Central or Central Market. I didn't go inside. Next to it there was a statue of the Roman Emperor Augustus and a stretch of Ancient Roman walls.

Mercado Central or Central Market.

Bronze statue of Roman Emperor Augustus.

Roman walls.

Roman walls.

At the end of the Roman walls I came to a little tower that housed Zaragoza tourist information office. I was allowed to climb up the tower free of charge to see views over Zaragoza.

Inside the tower.

View over the market from the tower.

View from the tower.

View towards Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar from the tower.

River View from the tower.

River View from the tower.

By this stage I was largely back in the main square of Zaragoza's Old Town. I had a look in the beautiful Church of San Juan de los Panetes. This wonderful Baroque church was completed in 1725. It stands on the site of an earlier church belonging to the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, which was destroyed in a fire. There's a statue of Saint John the Baptist on the facade of the church. One of the towers of this church is slightly tilted, making it the leaning tower of Zaragoza. I had a quick look inside the church, but could not stay too long as a service was about to start.

Church of San Juan de los Panetes, tourist office tower to the left, tall leaning tower to the right.

Church of San Juan de los Panetes.

Inside the Church of San Juan de los Panetes

Inside the Church of San Juan de los Panetes

Inside the Church of San Juan de los Panetes.

I was now back on Pilar Square. I had another look at the Fuente de la Hispanidad.

Pilar Square.

Pilar Square.

Fountain.

Naturally I had to take a look inside The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar. This is one of Zaragoza's two cathedrals. It is the first church ever built to honour the Virgin Mary.

The origins of this church can be traced back to a legend. The Apostle James, who is now Patron Saint of Spain, was trying to spread Christianity in Spain, but was getting disheartened at his lack of success. At this time the Virgin Mary was still alive and living in Jerusalem, but she appeared to James in a vision and offered him strength and encouragement to keep going. In his vision, James saw Mary standing on top of a pillar made of jasper and surrounded by angels. She left the pillar with James even when the vision faded and James built a chapel in the place he had experienced the vision. He placed the pillar with an image of Mary on top inside the chapel.

While the column and image of Mary still survive, the original chapel built by James was destroyed. The chapel was replaced first by a Romanesque Church, then this church was replaced by a Gothic one, which in turn was replaced by a church in Mudéjar style. Now the Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is huge with many towers and domes.

I went inside the church, but was told there was a service going on, so I would have to go back out and visit another part of the complex further along.

I wasn't supposed to take photos inside the church, but everyone else was so I did. Entry to Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is free, but there is a charge if you decide to climb up the tower to look at the views.

Inside The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Inside The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Inside The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Inside The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Inside The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

I took some more photos of the lions on the old stone bridge.

Lions.

Lions.

After that, I went home and brought Peter out. We were so close to the historical centre and everywhere was so flat that it was easy to take Peter around.

I took him to some churches and the Cathedral La Seo.

Peter with the Church of Santa María Magdalena.

Peter with the Church of San Miguel de los Navarros.

Peter with the Cathedral La Seo.

Peter with the Cathedral La Seo.

I also took him all around Pillar Square

Peter on Pilar Square.

Peter on Pilar Square.

Peter on Pilar Square.

Peter on Pilar Square.

Peter with the fountain.

Peter with a doorway.

Peter with the Church of San Juan de los Panetes.

Peter with the Church of San Juan de los Panetes.

We went to the remains of the Roman walls and the statue of Caesar Augustus. Peter liked the Irish pub here.

Peter on an old street.

Peter with Caesar.

Both of us with Caesar.

Peter with the Irish pub.

Peter with the Roman walls.

Peter with the market.

Peter with the viewing tower.

I took him along the river where he had a walk holding onto the fence. We then went onto the bridge to look at the church from there. I found a statue of a horse when we crossed the road back towards Pilar Square.

Peter by the river.

Peter by the river.

Peter with Our Lady of Pilar.

Peter with Our Lady of Pilar.

Peter with the lions.

Peter with the horse statue.

We went back to the hotel and claimed our free drink. We both had white wine.

Peter with our free drinks.

Both of us.

We decided to go back to the same restaurant as the day before for dinner and we were greeted like long lost relatives. It doesn't take much to become a regular here. Our order went wrong though. I got pork, eggs and chips, which was right, but Peter ordered sausage and got a tuna omelette. Guess my ability to point at a menu in Spanish is a bit dodgy.

Dinner.

Peter's omelette.

My pork.

After dinner I took Peter home and had one last walk around the Old Town to see it lit up at night.

Night street

I discovered the fountain by the Cathedral La Seo changed colour at night.

Cathedral La Seo.

Fountain.

Fountain.

This was also true of the Fuente de la Hispanidad.

Fuente de la Hispanidad.

Fuente de la Hispanidad.

Fuente de la Hispanidad.

Pilar Square was beautifully lit up and so was the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar.

Pilar Square.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

I also noticed several closed shops, restaurants and bars had art work on their shutters.

Gateway.

Bar.

Bar.

Zebra.

Leopard.

I was sad that this was our last night here. We had both really loved Zaragoza, but the next day we would be heading to Madrid.